Condesa can easily be described as the Fitzroy of Mexico City with cute bars and restaurants each specialising in different types of food and drink. People mill around on the pretty streets, which have causeways running down the centre of each, which are hugely helpful for dodging traffic, especially when we keep forgetting that cars come in the opposite direction. Art galleries can be found on street corners, and all of this is within a short walk from this massive city's centre.
We began our adventure last night with a dedicated search for tacos and beer. We came across a popular taco joint where I dutifully plugged the name of every dish into my translator, only to find that every taco contained meat, meat and a side of meat, although Aisling assures me they were delicious. Pig skin taco anyone? Yes, yes, I know a lot of you are salivating right now and probably shaking your heads at my vegetarianism, but hey man, it's a way of life, and also gives cause for great hilarity with waiters when I try and explain I don't eat meat. 'You're vegetarian? Ah, ok, have some pollos'. (Breaking Bad fans, you know what this means!). I settled for a queso and mushroom quesadilla, which was far superior to the version Mamasita try to emulate in Melbourne. We finished off the night at a micro brewery where the tasting glasses were big enough to get you drunk alone and the owner was very keen on getting us to try his home-made mezcal. Now, this is not a drink I'm not overly familiar with, and I imagine bad mezcal could probably strip paint from walls, and stomachs, but this was delicious, although I think it will take a few more glasses to convince Ais.
After sleeping off beer, mezcal and a 28-hour flight, we were ready for the day ahead. First stop, the museum de anthropologie - a wonderful collection showcasing the histories and artefacts of pre-Hispanic Mexico, including vast rooms dedicated to Mayan and Aztec cultures. The museum is huge and I was like a kid in a candy store, reliving my days as an archaeology student. The quantity of information was mind-blowing and I was actually quite thankful that most of it was in Spanish, as I have a bad habit of reading EVERYTHING put in front of me (thanks Dad).
Pre-Hispanic Mexicans were clearly a clever bunch, understanding the movements of the earth, moon and sun over 2000 years ago; 1500 years before Copernicus enlightened the rest of us. They developed advanced societies and cultures based on this knowledge, and their lives revolved around the cyclical nature of the sun, life and fertility, culminating in a taste for human sacrifice on a scale that has probably never been seen before, and hopefully won't be seen again. Below are a couple of educational photographs. Ok, enough with the history lesson.
They look like boobs!
Next stop, and a close second place in my heart after archaeology was the search for food. Taking a recommendation from the fabulous Sarah Trotter we ventured to Contramar, a Mexican seafood restaurant in Zona Rosa. Armed with un menu en ingles, we feasted on tuna sashimi tostadas, topped with crispy fried leeks, black ceviche, and prawn tacos, washed down with a couple of pints of dark ale. Delicious! Sadly, I didn't take any photos, as it wasn't 'that type of establishment', but I promise you it looked and tasted out of this world. We wandered back to our hotel full, content and thoroughly pleased with ourselves at the success of our first day.
Day 1 lesson learned - remember to charge camera before heading out for the day, as batteries dying after 3 photos can be a little frustrating!
Day 2 saw us tackle Mexico's highly efficient metro system and adventure out to the northern suburbs where the remains of the Mesoamerican city of Teotihuacán still stands in all it's glory. Built over 2000 years ago, the grand temple of the sun and the moon tower over the landscape. It's a hard climb to the top, but worth it for the spectacular views and head spin on the way down. At its height this city was home to over 80,000 people, until its collapse in the 8th century AD. Complete with ruins of markets, houses, walkways, and hawkers trying to sell you every kind of Mexican tat possible at every corner, it certainly made a fun day out.
Aisling at the top. She can climb, who knew!
With sore feet in tow, we headed back to the city centre and went out for some Friday night shenanigans. We only lasted until 2 am, which seemed to be about the same time that the Mexican fun really starts. Poor form on our part. I am putting this down to jetlag, and nothing to do with our ever-increasing years.
Day 2 lesson learned - Mexicans are extremely friendly, helpful and charitable. They also really like to drink. Glad to see we're in the right place.
Day 1 lesson learned - remember to charge camera before heading out for the day, as batteries dying after 3 photos can be a little frustrating!
Day 2 saw us tackle Mexico's highly efficient metro system and adventure out to the northern suburbs where the remains of the Mesoamerican city of Teotihuacán still stands in all it's glory. Built over 2000 years ago, the grand temple of the sun and the moon tower over the landscape. It's a hard climb to the top, but worth it for the spectacular views and head spin on the way down. At its height this city was home to over 80,000 people, until its collapse in the 8th century AD. Complete with ruins of markets, houses, walkways, and hawkers trying to sell you every kind of Mexican tat possible at every corner, it certainly made a fun day out.
Temple of the Sun. People were like sacrificed here and stuff...
With sore feet in tow, we headed back to the city centre and went out for some Friday night shenanigans. We only lasted until 2 am, which seemed to be about the same time that the Mexican fun really starts. Poor form on our part. I am putting this down to jetlag, and nothing to do with our ever-increasing years.
Condiments for three tacos! From left to right: lime pickled onions, habanero hot sauce (no joke, fucking hot), chipotle salsa, red pepper sauce, coriander and lime purée, and chilli and onion oil.
Fish taco with above condiments applied...
Day 2 lesson learned - Mexicans are extremely friendly, helpful and charitable. They also really like to drink. Glad to see we're in the right place.
Go easy on the habanero.
Today, we headed downtown to the historical centre, known as the Zoltalto, where the grand and austere-looking Palacio Nationale resides over what was once the centre of the Aztec capital city, Tenochitlan. Good old Cortes ordered the destruction of this remarkable place, along with the execution of the Aztec king, Montezuma, in order to construct his own palace. I think we'll be learning a lot more about conquistador número uno over the coming months, a man who single-handedly decimated half of middle and South America, all in the name of gold, Christianity and the king of Spain. What a guy!
We wandered around the central plaza, popped into a cathedral and accidentally interrupted mass, and made our way down to the Palacio de Bellas Artes taking in the atmosphere of a Mexican Sunday. Everyone seemed to be out and about - whole roads were closed to allow leisurely bike riders to cruise through the city centre, lovers walked hand in hand through parks, and it felt as though the entire city's population was on holiday. It really was quite lovely. Our only disappointment was our last meal in Mexico City - we needed a quick bite to eat before embarking on the next stage of our trip, and ended up in what can only be described as the la porchetta of tacquerias. Let's hope our stomachs hold out!
Day 3 lesson learned - just because fish tacos are on the menu, it doesn't mean I need to eat fish tacos.
We are now currently 10 hours into a 17-hour bus trip to Puerto Escondido (which is probably also why this blog entry is so long; don't worry, I'll try not subject you all to 3000-word essays with each entry, I'm even boring myself...). We'll be in touch again after a good dose of sand, sea, and of course, more taco tales. Adios amigos!
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Today, we headed downtown to the historical centre, known as the Zoltalto, where the grand and austere-looking Palacio Nationale resides over what was once the centre of the Aztec capital city, Tenochitlan. Good old Cortes ordered the destruction of this remarkable place, along with the execution of the Aztec king, Montezuma, in order to construct his own palace. I think we'll be learning a lot more about conquistador número uno over the coming months, a man who single-handedly decimated half of middle and South America, all in the name of gold, Christianity and the king of Spain. What a guy!
We wandered around the central plaza, popped into a cathedral and accidentally interrupted mass, and made our way down to the Palacio de Bellas Artes taking in the atmosphere of a Mexican Sunday. Everyone seemed to be out and about - whole roads were closed to allow leisurely bike riders to cruise through the city centre, lovers walked hand in hand through parks, and it felt as though the entire city's population was on holiday. It really was quite lovely. Our only disappointment was our last meal in Mexico City - we needed a quick bite to eat before embarking on the next stage of our trip, and ended up in what can only be described as the la porchetta of tacquerias. Let's hope our stomachs hold out!
Palacio de Bellas Artes, traffic cone complimentary.
Day 3 lesson learned - just because fish tacos are on the menu, it doesn't mean I need to eat fish tacos.
We are now currently 10 hours into a 17-hour bus trip to Puerto Escondido (which is probably also why this blog entry is so long; don't worry, I'll try not subject you all to 3000-word essays with each entry, I'm even boring myself...). We'll be in touch again after a good dose of sand, sea, and of course, more taco tales. Adios amigos!
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who needs school when you can learn history and archaeology from lucy? sounds like you guys are having an amazing time... mucho jealouso! (that's totally spanish for jealous.)
ReplyDeletexx
For what it's worth, I was not bored at all. x
ReplyDeleteWhat Jane says.
ReplyDeleteAlso, this.
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