Split-ends

Yep, pun aside, Split is the last destination on our tour of Croatia. Smaller and less touristy than Dubrovnik, Split boasts a Roman retirement palace at the centre of its old town and a sprawling modern promenade lined with over-priced restaurants and a smell of sulphur that would surely put anyone off their mussels and chips.

Le harbour

Thankfully we were staying in the old town, hidden away in a seemingly never-ending maze of streets that are hundreds of years' old and lined with pavements smooth as butter. Split is a lovely town to spend a few days and do little other than roam around at a relaxed pace and get lost in its alleyways and hideaway bars. And this is precisely what we did. Drink cocktails in an open-air 14th century atrium complete with creeping ivy and awesome French trip-hop? Done. Eat freshly caught fish alongside a carafe of wine? Done. Drink one-too-many happy-hour beers at the local backpacker bar while making new friends? Done. 

Some buildings...

But, our absolute highlight happened while walking back to our hostel on our first night. As we turned a corner and entered the heart of the Roman ruins that also double up as the town square, we were greeted with a spectacular sight. Ambient lights shone down onto the plaza, where people lined its edges sipping wine and beer. A small band rolled out smoochy hits from years gone by, and in the centre couples danced away, sweeping each other through this 2000-year-old piece of architecture. It was magical to watch and we spent two hours watching the lovers play and the local Croatian men serenade unsuspecting female tourists onto the dance arena. Ais succumbed; I did not, remembering my heady days failing (or should that be flailing) to dance salsa in Colombia. Take away the music and the electric lighting and you really could be in Diocletian's palace all those years ago, where the wine and woman would have flowed just as easily. It's often hard to completely immerse yourself in history, to be in a time long since forgotten, but visit Split at night and that's exactly what you get; just don't forget to being your dancing shoes.

Diocletian's retirement home. Not too shabby.

And so ends our visit to Croatia: a country that has surprised us both and made us keen to explore more of Eastern Europe. But, sadly there is no time for that. We have an overnight bus to Trieste to catch followed by a flight to London. It's time to get spoiled!